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Veröffentlicht am 2012-09-09 01:12:19 in /trv/

/trv/ 425: I have recenly bought a pack (picrelated) and star...

guischmitt Avatar
guischmitt:#425

I have recenly bought a pack (picrelated) and started hiking with a friend, he has done a few 5-day hikes across Tasmania and has lent me some gear as I need it.

We went to a place caled Wilson's Promontory for my first overnight hike and had quite an adventure on the second day.
I made a thread about it on /int/ but basically got called a pussy and liar.

Anyway, please share your hiking tips and experiences.

anass_hassouni Avatar
anass_hassouni:#434

you need minimum 90 litres backpack in Russia to hike with comfort
you need minimum -15 temperature sleeping bag to sleep with comfort in Russia if it's not summer. It usually weights 2,2 - 3 kg
main thing in hiking is your boots. buy expensive trekking boots with vibram or something like this
20 kg is usual weight of backpack for autonomous hike into woods for a week

rawdiggie Avatar
rawdiggie:#436

>>434
Thank you kind slav
My friend is ultralighter and his 46 litre, 12kg pack can sustain him for a week
I don't expect I can streamline as well as him but pick up his tips whenever I can

I went looking at boots and gaiters (lol snakes) over the past weekend, I found some good ones but I need to check my budget
We typically don't need to worry about extreme colds here but I may have an opportunity to do some snow hiking next year

bouyghajden Avatar
bouyghajden:#437

>>436
>ultralighter
that feel when ultralighters die because of cold, poor sleep and hunger in Russia.

robergd Avatar
robergd:#438

>>437
I will keep that in mind but I do not pln to hike in Russia, my state and country has enough trails and bushlands to last a lifetime
There are som good tramping trails in New Zealand too.

Do you take food or hunt/fish when hiking in Russia?

jqueryalmeida Avatar
jqueryalmeida:#439

>>438
we take food because you'll have food because of it 100%
we also of fishing sometimes but it's just like hobbie

souuf Avatar
souuf:#444

>>425
Use plastic bags to keep stuff (clothes, sleeping bag) dry.

agromov Avatar
agromov:#445

trekking poles can help you if you walk in place full of rocks or cross-country
they also can unload your back by 30%

georgedyjr Avatar
georgedyjr:#482

Are you going alone or with a buddy? If you haven't done this before then I suggest taking someone with you if you'll be going in pretty deep or staying for more than a few nights. Feel free to ask me anything specific, I don't hike much these days but I used to be really into it.

aiiaiiaii Avatar
aiiaiiaii:#511

>>444
I have a pack liner and cover, I also take a few plastic bags and bin liners just iin case

I have been meaning to get some poles, I borrowed one off my friend and I really noticed a difference

>>482
I will go with a friend, he is much more experienced than me.
Just wanting to hear stories really, did you ever have scary or amazing experiences?

mugukamil Avatar
mugukamil:#549

>>511
Once we wade mountain river. It was about 40-50 meters of boiling fast water. The water was up to the balls and we did it without any special eqipment. We hold each other arms and made synchronously one step after other. I almost could not breathe and think because of a lot of adrenaline.

kreativosweb Avatar
kreativosweb:#550

>>549
>boiling fast water
>boiling
I assume this is Runglish for rapids or powerful current

I havn't had to do a water crosing except a river mouth at low tide which was literally a hop and skip through ankle-deep water.

Actually I bashed my way through ferns and sword grass across drains that were like swamps.
The ferns were over 2 metres high at some points with fallen trees in some spots which you couldn't see until you walked into them.
We didn't have a machete but used a walking pole like a bulldozer, sometimes we had to just fall down on the ferns to make a walkable path.

It took us 2+ hours to travel about 500m

donjain Avatar
donjain:#582

>>425

Usually I'am a "day-hiker", which means I do 20 km - 30 km daytrips and drive home afterwards. I marched very much during my military service and slept in the woods during winter with probably -10 °C to maybe -20 °C temprature. I only had a very basic backpack which the military issued to me. Capacity was maybe 30l max. We had to carry spare clothing, rain gear and cold weather garment as well as our sleeping bag and other various smaller items including some food and water with us.

Remember: If you know how to pack right you can go light. And it's always better to go light. I recommend to make a list of items you will definitely need. I.e. one set of spare clothing (depends on how long you plan/estimate to be out in the nature) I made the experience that, depending on the weather conditions, one spare pair of socks, underwear and a t-shirt is enough. If overgarment becomes wet: dry it in the sun (just fixate the wet clothing on the back of your backpack and move on) or over a fire. If you know or expect that the weather will be shitty it would be better to have one spare set of overgarment (pair of pants, jacket/pullover/...) with you because drying clothing in a damp climate takes way to much time, sometimes it won't become really dry anyway.

Also think about food and water. Will you come near to settelments? If so, take only as much water and food with you to be able to reach the next settlement and restock there. Will water in form of lakes or creeks/rivers be available? Think about a filter (I can recommend the Katadyn Mini) and fill up your waterbottles while on the move. If you do this, also inform yourself of how to build improvised pre-filters in order to protect your own filtersystem which you carry with you. Lightweight food is also a plus. On the negative side: you need water to rehydrate it. Might be shitty in a environment with only a few water sources available. In this case better go for ready-to-eat meals. More weight, but hey, you don't need to waste water on preparing meals.

Also carry a small E&E-Pack with you. (preferably in a pocket of your trousers in case you lose your backpack). Usually it contains: some cord and wire, a waterproof packed lighter or stormmatches, maybe some firstarting tablets, some tape can come in handy, also condoms for carrying water around you, a whistle and a signal mirror will be good to + a small but powerful flashlight as distressmarker. Also think about a small first aid kit. (wouldn't recommend to buy prepacked ones, better pack your them on your own or strip and repack prepacked first aid kits to fit your needs - I can give you some advice if you wish)

Most important: a good backpack and shoes. Dunno of your brand. Doesn't look to bad. I use Berghaus backpacks, switched latley to a Cambak Linchpin with the Futura Harness from Mystery Ranch. It's fucking marvellous. Never had such a comfortable backpack before. Right now I'am thinking about switching comletly to the Mystery Ranch 3-Day pack and bigger versions. Downside: they are really expensive. If possible try as much backpacks you can get your hands on, one model or brand works for some better and for some not, maybe your buddies can help you out. Shoes: if possible try them out in a store. Since you are hiling in a warm climate go for the lighter versions, which means mid-high shoes without a full leather construction to allow for more breathability. I can recommend shoes from Merrell. Good prices, sturdy, good quality and really comfy. I own the Merrell Moab Mid GTX . As far I'am very happy with my purchase.

rohan30993 Avatar
rohan30993:#583

>>582

Just a quick summary:

- make a list with all essentials you will need
- asess your need for food and water, also how do you plan to cook? make a fire or use a stove (gas or fuel tablets?)
- asess your need for spare clothing and weather protection clothing, don't pack more then you need (take weather forecasts and your own knowledge of the terrain into account)
- use smaller backpacks (30l - to max. 45l), look out if the backpack offers a good and comfy load bearing system, better go for quality
- find good quality shoes, get some opinions from buddies, sales personnel, internet reviews (check out youtube)
- have some "survival goodies" (see E&E section) with you, I forgot to mention a good knife, maybe you could use a machete?
- also forgot sleeping: a light sleeping bag and a tarp with rope and maybe some tent pegs plus addtional natural materials should do the trick, also have a insulation or a selfinflatable matress with you, or you know how to make one from raw natural materials
- know how to tie some basic knots, practise at home (check youtube for tutorials, that's the way how I learnt to tie some basic knots)
- inform yourself about firemaking, if possible use kindling from natural ressouces rather than relying on solid fuel tablets

Thats for now. I hope I mentioned all the essentials. Feel free to ask me about specifics. Hopefully, my posts are somehow useful for you.

davidsasda Avatar
davidsasda:#586

what can you put into 45 l backpack? I had bigger one for my books when I studied in school.

danro Avatar
danro:#587

>>586

The bigger the backback the higher the temptation to pack unnecessary stuff in it thus increasing the weight you have to carry around for days - and this all for nothing because you probably going to use half of the stuff in the ruck at best.

45l is IMO the best for a longer stay in the outlands. Trust me, hiking for days and over long distances with a 80l or even a 100l backpack sucks big time.

meisso_jarno Avatar
meisso_jarno:#588

>>587
Well if you can't carry 80l then you are pretty much weak. I prefer comfort when I sleep and my sleeping bag would take 30 litres from those 45 and there would be no space for all food after this, lol. Also you can always make 45 litres bag from 90 but never vice versa.

curiousonaut Avatar
curiousonaut:#603

>>588

Well, you have to take your needs into account. Since OP is hiking in a warm climate he doesn't need a fuckton of gear. If you go out hiking in a cold climate you need of course more of everything starting with food and coming down to weather protection gear. I'am highly aware of this.

>Well if you can't carry 80l then you are pretty much weak.

It's not about being weak, it's about being smart. My whole point is, that an unnecessary big backpack tempts you to pack more stuff than you actually would need for your trip. Beginners make this mistake all the time and then wonder why they are exhausted after 2 or 3 days. All of the above breaks down to a easily understandable concept: a smaller backpack with only the necessary stuff in it means less weight you carry around which means increasing your endurance and helps to conserve your energy for other more important things than carrying around dead weight all for nothing.

>my sleeping bag would take 30 litres

I wrap mine in a bivvy bag togehter with a inflatable matress and strap this combination on the outside of my backpack. Problem solved, no need to waste space inside the backpack for a sleepingbag.

Don't get me wrong, if you want to carry around a 80l ruck feel free to do so. I used to do the same, packed it full with stuff I thought I could need. In the end I was using maybe half of the gear. Figuerd out for myself that I don't need to carry around dead weight.

Also I know that you have to increase the size of your backpack the longer you are away from settlements and the shittier/colder the weather will be. Still the concept stays the same: think about what you are going to take with you. I'am not talking about sacrificing major comfort items or even very important items like a stove or even food and water. I just want to tell that it's better to think about the whole situation you estimate you will find yourself in rather than mindlessly stuffing your backpack full of stuff you don't need just for the sake that the backpack is filled.

No hard feelings. I have no problem with a nice discussion about the topic.

deviljho_ Avatar
deviljho_:#609

>>603
>strap this combination on the outside of my backpack
actually bad idea. one day this combination will end it's life on branches of some tree. I know it because I lost my tent once because of this.

iamfelipesouza Avatar
iamfelipesouza:#610

>>609

I should have been more specific, sorry. I meant to strap it underneath or on top of the backpack. Chance it gets lost: near zero. We did the same in the army. Two good straps and the whole sleeping bag combo goes on top of the ruck. We moved through diffucult terrain with hills, brushes, trees and what not. Nobody lost his sleeping bag ever on those excercises. It's just a matter of securing your gear the proper way.

meisso_jarno Avatar
meisso_jarno:#611

>>610
In any case, hikers of CIS countries are convinced that the backpack should be large, and all equipment should be kept inside. There are many reasons for this beginning from the possibility of losing and damaging things with branches or rocks and ending with possibility of things getting wet under the rain. Such cases.

adriancogliano Avatar
adriancogliano:#613

Are backpacks not fully filled comfortable to wear?

Usually, you only see them completly filled up.

Let's say a 70l only filled by half its volume.

iamglimy Avatar
iamglimy:#616

>>611

>hikers of CIS countries are convinced that the backpack should be large

I see, it's a different approach to use a backpack. Nothing wrong with that as long it works for you. I just wanted to share my opinion on the topic, so did you. Thats cool.

I think we can agree on the point that you strongly have to take the local nature and conditions + personal preferences into account in order to choose the right setup.

>There are many reasons for this beginning from the possibility of losing and damaging things with branches or rocks and ending with possibility of things getting wet under the rain.

This is why my sleping bag combo is stored in a bivvy bag (basically a strong, durable and waterproof goretex fabric which can be used as some kind of tent when shit hits the fan or you want to go without a tent or a tarp. Regarding branches and rocks damaging your gear: I don't know how your local conditions are, usually I choose my route through the terrain carfully. But I understand that you don't have a choice at any time. Sometimes there is only one shitty way you can take to get on. So yeah, you got a point. Though, I never had such a problem when I fixed my sleeping bag combo on the top or underneath my ruck. As mentioned before I was crawling through bushes and other various crap nature has to offer in order to slow you down using the small army issued ruck with a sleeping bag in a rubber coated sack mounted on top of the backpack. Never lost it, didn't even get loose or something like that.

Just two different opinions on the topic. OP should think about about different setups and figure out which works best for him.

>>613

Depends how you pack them. If you got something in there which can move around inside the backpack while you are walking it gets usually shitty real quick. Otherwise no problem, may just look silly (well, who gives a fuck?) and take more space than needed (could deny some of your agility compared to carrying a smaller backpack). Getting the right backpack is unfortunatly some kind of trial and error, like it is with good hiking boots. You might have to try some different backpacks to find the right one which fits you best.

steynviljoen Avatar
steynviljoen:#631

>>613
those with plates for inflexibility are pretty comfort. but they are heavier.

juaumlol Avatar
juaumlol:#820

>>616
>Just two different opinions on the topic. OP should think about about different setups and figure out which works best for him.
I haven't dropped in on this thread for at least a week now!!!

Thanks to both of you for the discussion in my absence, it is always nice to see civil discussion from opposing opinions.

My friend is very much into ultralight hiking but I don't think my budget will currently allow it.
I need to get some boots in the next couple of weeks and your tips were useful, I need to get some that have an arch for gaiter straps to go underneath
At the moment I can't avoid extra weith with my tent and sleeping system

>>613
I think as long as it has sufficient straps it should be okay.
If the luggage is floating around it will be annoying but it shouldn't be a problem if all the weight is secured snugly against your back.

starburst1977 Avatar
starburst1977:#850

I am a total beginner, but do you plan the route before or do you do it randomly?

Are there any typical hiking routes across the countries in Europe?

Any other advices when choosing destination and how to reach it?

nerrsoft Avatar
nerrsoft:#922

>>850
you must always plan your route, you must know places where you will sleep, how much food and how much money you must have. if you are a beginner try your first hike with someone experienced so you'll learn fast.

johnriordan Avatar
johnriordan:#923

>>922
So must plan ahead?
Nothing spontanous?

ultragex Avatar
ultragex:#924

>>850
you can try the way

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1441912/

plenty of people do that route and you get cheap hostels if you want them

danro Avatar
danro:#927

>>425
>Wilson's Promontory

Noice, went hiking there as a kid often.

grafxiq Avatar
grafxiq:#930

>>923
well, not strictly, but you should have an idea what you do.

snowshade Avatar
snowshade:#932

nice pack

enriquemmorgan Avatar
enriquemmorgan:#962

Can we make a list on how much you would pack in if you were to camp/hike a place with moderate to very arm climate, mainly arid?

- tent
- sleeping bag
- camping mat if the surface is hard and a bit rocky
- cloths: 2 t-shirts (1 with sleeve), 1 softshell, 1 hardshell, how many socks?, how many pieces of underwear?
Will this be enough?

- if there is no wood, how would you go on and cook something?

- various tools, from dishes to first aid pack

otozk Avatar
otozk:#963

>>962
everything depends on if you want to be as lightweight as possible or not

- tent - I prefer a hammock with mosquito netting and a tarp (you can use a poncho as a tarp), being stuck in a small tent is miserable.
- sleeping bag -unnecessary unless it's really cold
- camping mat - I'd use a space blanket since it's good for so many things http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/showthread.php/64037-quot-Made-in-the-USA-quot-Gear-Review-The-Original-Space-All-Weather-Blanket
- cloths: either wool or synthetic, quantity depends on how much you'll be washing

- if there is no wood, how would you go on and cook something? fuel, electricity, candles. use thermos cooking to be as efficient as possible or just get food that doesn't require cooking

- various tools, from dishes to first aid pack. multitool with pliers and whatever else you need based on your needs. Don't overbuy useless shit that you have no knowledge on how to use, this is more for the medical stuff more than anything, but stuff like charcoal pills in case you get stomach poisoning is indispensable.

For mess kit it doesn't get better than this little combo
http://www.amazon.com/Guyot-Designs-Squishy-Pet-Bowls/dp/B002YMN3CY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5dduKoNxSAk&feature=related

another useful tool
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pvv97vPLHk

jffgrdnr Avatar
jffgrdnr:#964

Say, how would you organize lodging for the night in Europe? I want to try a week long hike as well but the one thing I can't figure out is where to sleep cheaply. Youth hostels aren't available everywhere, so you'd have to book a room in a hotel each day I figure. The prices are 30EUR and up for a night, so that's gonna be damn pricey in the end. Camping is only allowed at specific places as well, so that's not an option either. How do you guys do it? Any reliable way to get through the night at 10EUR maximum?

andrewgurylev Avatar
andrewgurylev:#979

>>962
for teh Russia:
obligatorily:
- good backpack
- good windproof tent
- sleeping bag -10C even in summer
- fat camping mat
- metal cup-bowl-spoon-knife
- firestarter
- "active" underwear
- lightweight windproof suit
- 1 fleece jacket
- trekking boots
- raincoat
all equipment must be synthetic

albertodebo Avatar
albertodebo:#980

>>964
just camp where you want, no one will find you anyway
picrelated camping in Romania

aluisio_azevedo Avatar
aluisio_azevedo:#985

>>980
>just camp where you want, no one will find you anyway

Absolutely not.
You have no idea how crowded it is here. You'll be found and removed from premises very quickly. There's no place that isn't watched by someone at least once in an hour anywhere here.

mactopus Avatar
mactopus:#1038

>>985
we don't know that feel there

iamkarna Avatar
iamkarna:#1040

>hiking

water container is a must!

malgordon Avatar
malgordon:#1553

What shoes should i get?

>Gore Tex vs. Leather

I've read that Gore Tex works only up until 20°C outside temperature which means during the summer the heat won't be easily getting out of your shoe.
But with leather you gotta break them in, you gotta maintain them properly.

>Weight

I know that a more sturdy shoe comes with more weight, but the big downside is that you are carrying more weight with you.

I really want to avoid 1,6kg pair of boots. While they are good if you are heavily packed, they will drag you down when you have little to no weight on your shoulders.

>sole

Again, a soft sole is better for grip but wears out fast. A hard one is more sturdy and long lasting.

tube_man Avatar
tube_man:#1554

>>1553

>I've read that Gore Tex works only up until 20°C outside temperature

Gore-Tex only works when the difference between inside and outside is larger than 15°C.
This doesn't mean that Gore-Tex doesn't work at all in high temperatures. It just means that it doesn't work as good as it could.

>But with leather you gotta break them in, you gotta maintain them properly.

Yes, you have to wax and take care of them but you have to do it with every peace of gear so this isn't a valid argument. I strongly prefer leather boots because the climate in them is better than in Gore-Tex/synthetic boots.
I own a pair of Meindl Watzmann MFS and I really like them.

>I know that a more sturdy shoe comes with more weight, but the big downside is that you are carrying more weight with you.
>While they are good if you are heavily packed, they will drag you down when you have little to no weight on your shoulders.

You won't feel the weight while carrying them and they also won't drag you down once you got used to them.

>Again, a soft sole is better for grip but wears out fast. A hard one is more sturdy and long lasting.

Depends on where you want to hike. A soft one is better for plain terrain but if you're in a tumular area I'd strongly recommend you a pair of boots with a category B/C sole at least. You will find it easier to go uphill and maybe even climb a bit since the sole is more solid and keeps a bit of downhill force.

doronmalki Avatar
doronmalki:#1556

>>1554
>Gore-Tex only works when the difference between inside and outside is larger than 15°C.

Well, the difference in summer will be always under 15°C.

>Depends on where you want to hike.

Well, pic somewhat related.

In the end the most important thing for me is thegrip while descending.

You don't even need to climb a high mountain to find the situation like the one in the picture.
I don't want to walk roads that are used even by kids, always too packed.

B/C category that is...i think i will go with B in combination with a really grippy outsole.

Shriiiiimp Avatar
Shriiiiimp:#1557

>>1556
Forgot the pic

mrxloka Avatar
mrxloka:#1565

I use Goretex boots myself but they really aren't ideal for long trips. The main problem is that goretex is completely waterproof which isn't a good thing if your boot gets wets and it'll stay wet while you walk since it doesn't drain. Leather boots can be fully waterproof if the seams are treated with wax but it's better to not waterproof them as it'll let water drain out if it gets in which it will since it isn't waterproof.

In short Goretex is good if you don't let water in and leather is good if water is going to get in which is inevitable in longer trips. It's like the down vs synthetic argument, down is superior to synthetic as long as it doesn't get wet.

Bernd Avatar
Bernd:#1575

>>616
I got the cheapest backpack I could find, 65l. After I strapped my tent, backpack and "Isomatte" (what's the english word for that?) on the outside, I barely could fit in all the food. And that was only for two days. Well, to be honest, the water took most of the space, but still. I just had one set of everything to change with me, as I didn't know how the weather would be.

Also, I use my (German) army boots. Is this a bad idea?
(As you might have noticed, my budget is tight...)

krdesigndotit Avatar
krdesigndotit:#1576

>>1565
Which leather is the most breathable and yet water repellent?

Most boots use Nubuk leather I think.

millinet Avatar
millinet:#1653

washable inlay-soles for the shoes are naayce. Have mine since 6 years,> SPENCOS

_zm Avatar
_zm:#1688

I wore quality gore-tex and no-gore-tex boots over time, and now i only own pure leather boots.

gore tex will limit the amount of sweat you can get out. The membrane only has a specific capacity of sweat per hour it can get out. I found pure leather boots more compfy when it is hot.

gore tex is sensitive, when you stress the boot a lot it gore tex can rupture where hard and stiff elements of your boot meets with softer elements, say where you leather folds, your gore tex will rupture and your shoe won't be waterproof anymore. I heard multiple complains from heavy users about that, and my own gore-tex shoes aren't tight anymore either after only 3 years.

most good trekking i know are leather outside anyways. To keep the leather good you need to wax it anyways, but with gore-tex you must be more careful not to stuff up the membrane with wax, or you use something that isn't as resiliant as wax and need to apply it more often. So your gore-tex boot needs more or at least same attention as pure leather boots.

good pure leather boots that you hot-waxed will be watertight for several consecutive days in rain until you have to re-wax. Yet they still are at least as breathable as gore-tex shoes with leather outside (own experience). Wax is small and compact, easy to carry around. There is liquified wax solved in a solvent in a squeezable plastic tube with a sponge attached to the bottom, so you can apply directly, it soaks in and drys quickly, i carry that on longer trips.

I only found gore-tex boots better when i spend 2 weeks in ice and snow. It was -20 Celsius and less, and the wax of the shoes were washed out and rubbed out from constant marching thru ice and snow after 2 days, and i got wet feet. I switched to my gore-tex backups and had no issues for the rest of the trip. But i must say i did a poor job waxing and changed the wax i use, i increased the wax amount, and i heat up my wax now so my wax job lasts much longer. Now i'm using no gore-tex pure leather in similar enviroment, and i wax them like once a week when i use them heavily on daily basis.

But, i'm not convinced that gore-tex boots last as long as pure leather shoes. The membrane won't stand up as long as the rest of the boots, a good pair can last you for decades. My Hanwag boots are 8 years now and they're still in very, very good shape. You can get new sole for a fraction of the boot.

That is why i go by quality no-gore-tex leather shoes.

German army boots are not the best boots you can get, but they are not terribly bad. I would recommend brands like Hanwag, Lowa, Meindl. Hanwags Alaska GTX and the no-gore-tex Yukon variant win all the competions and tests for years now, and it is a very high quality boot. Many german soldiers buy Hanwags as a replacement for their issued boots, expecially everyone who has to march a lot. Special forces like KSK, recon units and paratroopers started that thing, since then it became the "gold standard" boot here.

kennyadr Avatar
kennyadr:#1689

Also make sure the boot fits you. Many still claim a boot must be "worn in" and that blisters are normal, but from my experience only bad fitting boots will give you blisters. I rarely had blisters with Hanwags and i did stuff like 30km+/day for a week straight when the boots were new. When i had blisters, my feet got wet, i had wrong socks, or other stuff that didnt fit. Once i figured out what socks to wear and how tight to bind my boots i never had blisters.
I would recommend going for at least a 15-20km test walk to determine if the boots fit you.

To backpacks, there is different oppinions on how it should be build. Some people like backpacks that have thin or no padding, no hard back and snug to your back. This is fine if you have a sleeping back and clothing in your backpack, but if you carry hard stuff that will push thru the back and be uncompfy. I like backpacks with a stiff frame and heavy padding that resist deforming of the backpack by the content very hard. Also i find that these frames are able to put the weight on the waist belt, which is *the* key point in good backpacks. Many, many backpacks totally fail to do that. It requires a good frame and a well designed waist belt to do that. If you have that, you can transfer about 15-20kg of weight directly onto your hips. I found that if you go above this weight, even well made waist belts won't work anymore. I didn't go over this weight for hiking, but i did when i bought groceries with my 120L pack or picked up heavy equipment and tools with my backpack. For hiking, i wouldn't even attempt to go with so much weight since it will just kill your fun and is not necessary.
Good test is to just load the pack, put it on back, tighten waist belt and then release the shoulder straps. The pack should stay where it is. If it slips down after some steps, the waist belt is not working good. It is a giant different if you carry the weight on the waist or the shoulders, so make sure you get a good backpack.

I own a 120L and a 60L backpack, and ususally i would need something in the middle. I never really needed 120L capacity for a hiking trip, not even 2 week ones. But i usually need more than 60L for a trip. 60L only get me across like 3 days tops because the basic sleeping gear and some basic spare clothes takes up so much space already that i can't fit in much water and food.
But the pack is more of an equipment-pack for me that i use for special things rather than hiking, so thats okay. I'm using my backpacks on a daily basis for hauling tools to workplaces, shopping groceries etc. and i often overload them both on volume and weight.
For hiking, a 80L pack would serve me best even for long trips. I ususally pack water for 2-3 days max and make sure i can get water where i am, either by buying it, filtering it, or melting snow with my gas cooker which i did on my winter trip. I usually use up 3 liters per day in normal conditions, if it gets real hot i saw myself drinking 6 liters and more. I don't want to haul a week's supply of damn water. Water is ususally the biggest chunk of my weight, so plan ahead on that.

The 120L pack is only a 120L pack if you "load up" the snow-cover as well. It is "full" when you put in like 80 liters, and then you can put on another 20-30 liters and then you got 20 liters on detachable side-pockets. So its kinda flexible. Most top-loaders in this size category offer that, so yeah i would say a non-full pack is no problem. Also it has compression straps that allow to compress it and pull the weight close to your back, you can carry it comfy and tightly compressed with only like 30-40 liters in it.
You always want the heavy stuff close to your back and deep down, otherwise it will have leverage and stress you more.

_kkga Avatar
_kkga:#1690

Speaking of cookers, get a gas cooker. One catridge lasts very long you can ususally cook daily for 2 weeks even with a small one. I made the mistake to buy a big one, used it on my winter trip and melted water every day, dryed gloves and socks over it, cooked, and it was like 2/3 full after that. There is summer-only gas which is pure butane, won't work in winter, watchout, you want high propane percentage for winter. Buying catridges might be a problem if you're in some foreign country and plan on very long trips, i would prefer fuel or universal cookers there, but as long as one catridge will be enough, i would always go with gas. Also the vast power of a gas cooker will allow you to boil even large quantities of water very fast and efficient if you have to.
I would recommend the screw-one catridges, they're more expensive but you can remove them from the cooker without problems since they have a valve, and the screw-one cookers are much lighter and cheaper than the big ones that accept these poke-catridges that are penetrated by a metal tube and have no valve.

Also if you expect cold and wet, you want synthetics clothes. They dry in an hour or two even if you keep wearing them, while the cotton stuff will stay soaked for days. Some guys love their merino wool socks and say that synthetic socks are shit, but i'm very happy with my synthetic socks. Make sure you get thick hiking socks that are padded at the stressed areas and that your boots have the right size to have room for those left.

I had 3 self-inflatable sleeping pads, the kind that has foam inside to inflate them. What shall i say, i broke them all in a very short time by punctureing them. I liked them since they are still pretty compact when deflated, they isolate very, very good and they're comfy. I can't sleep on my back, i'm a side-sleeper and thats very hard if you don't have something cushy to equalize between you and your ground. Now i have a 19mm evazote sleeping pad. It is way more bulky, more heavy, less comfy, but it is indestructable.

The german armed forces bought the carinthia defence 4 backpack, that is why you can pick those up here for a bargain price if you know some soldiers. I paid 90€ for it, the new price is twice as much. It is an excellent sleeping bag, i used it at -20 and more, and it keept me warm. If you really want to stay outside on low temperatures, make sure your sleeping bag covers the expected temperatures in its "comfort zone", because if it is in the "survival zone" it will mean you'll shake of freezing all night which doesn't make for good sleep.

I also have a carinthia gore-tex biwi bag, and this thing is amazing. It is 100% waterproof and you basically don't need a tent anymore once you have such a thing. I combine it with a tarp to shield rain and wind a bit, and thats all i need. I ususally put the sleeping pad inside the biwi bag, so it can't slip away and doesn't get wet.
I also carry a piece of what they call "elephant skin" in german army, its basically a piece of reinforced rubber/plastic sheet that you can pick up in army surplus store for like 3 bucks, it is the size of a sleeping bag and it is waterproof, thin and lightweight. I use it to keep the biwi bag clean and from getting punctured by stones or so. With that gear, i even sleept comfy surrounded by ice at -22 degrees. Make sure you have an entrenching tool to shovel away the ice you're sleeping on, because otherwise you'll melt it with your body and wake up in a small lake. Happened to my budy who put the tent plainly on the ice without shoveling it away.
He would have had to shovel away 2x2 meters of ice for his tent, while i only shoveled away 0,5x2m for my little tarp. Another advantage if you have to prepare your sleeping site like this, breaking and shoveling that ice took me half an hour and i had a heavy duty german army entrenching tool that weights a ton. And i get laughed at for carrying it on regular basis until we need it. Those things are like 6 bucks here btw, and sometimes save your ass. I never go without it, it folds very compact and they're indestructable. Of course if you do a one-day sunshine trip, you won't need it but 2 weeks in ice and snow and you'll die for one.

All that stuff doesn't take up much space in the backpack, the biwi bag and tarp are thin&lightweight, only the sleeping pad has to go outside because its too huge. I strap it under the backpack.

:3

adhiardana Avatar
adhiardana:#1761

>>1690
Do you mean the BW Klappspaten? I destroyed two of them already and I didn't even treat them badly. Nice post anyway.

lightory Avatar
lightory:#1762

>>1761

>>1690
>Do you mean the BW Klappspaten?

Yes.

>I destroyed two of them already and I didn't even treat them badly.

What the hell did you do with it?

alta1r Avatar
alta1r:#1763

>>1762
Well I would suppose he bought a MilTec MilSchrott Klappspaten. The Wehrmachtspaten from my Grandpa still does his duty

garand Avatar
garand:#1764

I need a one-walled tent, which is not a carp and doesn't cost >300€, but i can't find anything.

Do you have any known sites that offers a vast amounts of tents?

itskawsar Avatar
itskawsar:#1765

>>1762
>>1763
They were both government issued dienstlich-geliefert. The handle of the first one bent really badly when I had to chop down some plants with it, you couldn't even collapse it anymore.
The second time I used it to shovel a trench. A big piece of the tip broke off. I guess I hit rock at some point.

Better be careful.

chanpory Avatar
chanpory:#1767

Holy mad, government issued translate to "please break me".

I whacked down small trees with mine and moved a ton of earth, still like new.

aiiaiiaii Avatar
aiiaiiaii:#1768

backpacks with these horizontal straps across the chest are retarded

malgordon Avatar
malgordon:#1772

The strap across the chest prevents the vertical shoulder straps to pull against your shoulder muscles which go parallel to the strap on your back. If your backpack is really heavy and you carry it over a while with the chest strap loose, and then tighten the chest strap, you'll feel your muscles relax in that region.

Also, any backpack without a good, wide waist belt is a joke. Proper backpack will load most of the weight onto your hips via the waist belt. If not its badly designed shit.

Neuste Fäden in diesem Brett: